巴黎导吃记者：“缘圆鸭”！

海芬心语

法国侨报 巴黎导吃记者海芬汤圆专栏一：

“缘圆鸭”！不吃猜不到 一吃忘不了！

香格里拉大厨“下嫁”

奥贝赫维利耶欧洲最大华人批发城缘圆酒家

奥市顾问文森：巴黎最好的烤鸭！最好的中餐馆！我一定要带我的朋友来！

一：“奥市吃饭？凑乎吧！”

你一定和我一样，如果有朋友请你到奥市吃饭，一定会这么想。

但是，这次和老朋友黄云亮、胡宗源先生等到奥市的“缘圆酒家”吃饭，却让我完全颠覆了对奥市华人批发城原先“大排档”餐厅的概念！

二：法国朋友：“巴黎最好的烤鸭！最好的中餐馆！”

朋友静雅、小花、奥市顾问文森、《法国侨报》实习记者汤圆和我,一起去缘圆午餐。

晶亮、香味扑鼻的烤鸭一上来，马上吸引了我们的视线，搅动了味蕾：一口带皮带肉的鸭肉下去，哇塞！香、脆、鲜……还有啥？

刚刚还喧哗着大家争相说话的包厢，餐桌上顿时静静的……

缘圆的鸭皮和鸭肉，没有像全聚德分开。刚出炉切好的鸭子，状态非常好，酥，一口咬下，即化。香气不等入嘴，就迫不及待地钻进鼻孔。鸭皮有挂炉烤鸭的典型特点，酥脆喷香，显然是完全吸收了皮下油脂。鸭肉的部分也无可挑剔。大家纷纷表示：此鸭乃今生巴黎吃到的最美烤鸭！

吃过好几个巴黎朋友推荐的烤鸭。

但是，今天，奥贝赫维利耶，居然有这么好吃的烤鸭？！

吃了一会儿，盘底朝天了。

斯文？不好意思，忘记了……

热情的老板娘，又来一盘……

有的蘸酱吃，觉得味道更美。而我，只是觉得，原味烤鸭，已经很好很好吃了！虾，上了；还有别的蔬菜……我们埋头苦干中……

我去过北京，吃过全世界最有名的全聚德烤鸭。据说，烤鸭最重要的品质是依赖于鸭子品种和品质的稳定。经过确认，巴黎鸭子，中国人一样可以做到最好吃！关键还是技术！

奥市顾问文森打破了沉默说：“鱼做得很棒，虾有点辣但是正好，烤鸭很特色，可以说是巴黎最好的烤鸭。会带前市长来品尝，这里可能是Aubervilliers最好的中餐馆。”

三：为什么是缘圆的烤鸭好吃？

我奇怪：缘圆的烤鸭为啥好吃？

老板娘是当年“巴黎的青田最美花”，人说人爱，直到如今，依然风姿绰约优雅得体。

老板娘回我说：“为什么好吃？我们的大厨，是我从香格里拉请来的啊！”

“香格里拉请来的大厨？真的吗？”我不是不相信老板娘，只是惊讶之余我的下意识反应。

“对啊！徐师傅他就在厨房呢！”老板娘拉着我就上楼。

到了3楼，居然整个露面都是厨房啊！里面有5个人带着厨师帽，正在忙碌。

“这个就是徐师傅！”老板娘给我们介绍。

徐师傅说，他是东南亚籍，来法40年，精通粤菜。

“为啥愿意下嫁缘圆？”徐师傅笑着说：这里离我家近。老板娘和我是多年朋友。情义无价啦！

“那为什么你们的烤鸭这么入味？”我继续问

“这个问黄师傅”。旁边，黄师傅笑眯眯的。原来，是不会说普通话，只会说粤语。但是是一个地道粤菜大厨。

我很好奇：“不会说普通话和法语？那么怎么沟通呢？”

徐师傅说：“我们都在厨房，我们是团队，我们相互翻译啊！”

通过徐师傅的翻译和黄师傅的现场演示，我知道一点点缘圆烤鸭好吃的秘密了：鸭子，是正宗的法国鸭。但是得先在掛炉里“特别处理”。肉很嫩鴨架很焦，肋骨的地方都可以直接把骨头吃了……

我想着公司没有来的同事，要求买半只，打包：半只鸭，10欧。划算！

同事吃了，也直夸味道好！

四：除了鸭子，另外的全部飘过……

其实，那一天，缘圆饭店还吃了新进的兰州拉面师傅的正宗的兰州牛肉拉面；还有烧腊；还有……

还有，值得一提的是，这是巴黎第一次看到，干净，整洁的楼道，和整洁到可以在里面吃东西的厕所……

一个奥贝赫维利耶的温州老板，如何可以做到如此独一无二？

老板的理念是：一：高成本、高质量、高回报。包括食材、餐具等，都是选购最好的；二：注重细节：餐具的准备，饭店的卫生等方面，都要做到精益求精

除了提供最好吃的特色菜，饭店还有近400平方米，两层楼都分别设置大圆桌，有4个可容纳14人并带有卡拉OK的大包厢！

婚庆、酒席、生日宴会等预定都可！饭店可容80人同时用餐！

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